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New Hope For Cape Wineries
Two new brands have clearly established themselves as leaders in the UK
market and a growing number of smaller, independent wineries have emerged as rising stars as South Africa throws off its isolationist past.
Kumala and Long Mountain are the two new leading brands, both
competing in the popular price ranges - but with differing approaches. Kumala specialises in dual-varietal blends whilst Long Mountain concentrates, generally speaking, on single varietals.
Curiously, in this manner, they complement each other rather than clash. What is very evident is that both ranges have made positive progress in the last 3 vintages. Having been fortunate enough to visit both wineries and see their vineyards, and to meet the head winemakers and the management, I am convinced that the UK holds a successful future for them both. South Africa needs these flag-bearers on the shelves of the national multiple retailers.
There is a wide range of dual varietals from Kumala, each packed with fresh, up-front fruit flavours. This means that there is a style to suit everyone's taste. Strongly recommended are Kumala
Chenin-Chardonnay 1999 in Asda, Tesco and Wine Cellars at £3.99, Kumala Semillon-Chardonnay 1999 in Safeway, Victoria Wine, Thresher and Majestic at £4.29 and Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz 1998 in Asda and
Sainsbury's at £4.49. Also well favoured are Long Mountain Chardonnay 1999 in Asda, Safeway and Londis at £4,49, Long Mountain Chenin Blanc 1999 in Alldays, Co-op and some branches of Tesco at £3.99 and the
greatly improved Long Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 in Safeway, Alldays and some branches of Tesco at £5.49.
In contrast, life has been more difficult for small Cape producers for a variety of reasons.
One reason is that often they do not produce sufficient volume to be able to meet the needs of national distributors. Another is that the period of Apartheid isolated them from the rest of the wine world, at the very time when so many dramatic changes and improvements came about, and other countries, such as Australia, New Zealand, Chile and the United States established themselves as respected sources of 'New World' wines.
Now however a new opportunity has arisen for wine lovers to enjoy a host of Cape wines from independent wineries, through the vision and enthusiasm of the infant South Africa Wines Direct Ltd, www.sawinesdirect.com, which
is the brainchild of Michael Hoy and his sister, Joan Harrison.
Michael operates in South Africa while Joan controls the UK arm of the business from the quaint old village of Plaxtol in Kent. They claim to be able to ship a case of virtually any South African wine from an independent producer to your door in the UK within 7 - 14 days.
Already the business has an extensive list of some 250 wines, many of which one would be hard pressed to find.
Particularly impressive is the Nitida Chardonnay 1999 from Durbanville. Quite simply this wine has the potential to be a future star. It is Chardonnay with a distinctive style of its own. Only 4,000 cases are produced by Bernhard Veller in one of the coolest grape-growing climates in the Cape. Nitida Chardonnay is delicately oaked and is an elegant wine with lime flavours and a fine balance of fruit and acidity. Considering that the vines are only 6 years old the promise for the future is most exciting.
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Three years ago I visited Villiera at Paarl and frankly was a little disappointed with its
Sauvignon Blanc, so I was quite elated to enjoy the dramatic improvement with the 1999 vintage. It is fresh and alive and true to the varietal and demonstrates that, even
in Paarl's rather hot climate, the best Cape winemakers are learning how to balance their wines to suit international tastes. Notably, this Sauvignon Blanc is served in business class by South African Airways.
Other names to look out for include Boekenhoutskloof, with outstanding Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Some may struggle with the name but few will forget the unique label with its seven chairs. Traditionally these have been made over the last 3
centuries from Cape beech or Kaapse Boekenhout.
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Established South African wine lovers will have learned by now that Pinotage is often
an extremely attractive wine but can vary appreciably in style. Those seeking an example of some depth and character would do well to try Mont Rochelle Pinotage
1999 from Franschhoek. It comes from a 300 year old estate now in the 8th generation of the De Villers family, who were originally French Huguenot settlers. It
has a reputation for aging from 5 - 8 years and was recently selected for a London banquet hosted by President Mbeki.
For Merlot, Meerlust at Stellenbosch is well favoured. It has a good reputation as a
soft red with berry flavours. If you are looking for Cabernet Sauvignon try Vergenoegd, also from Stellenbosch and which has a track record for gold medals. As for a name
for the future take note of Cordoba Crescendo. This is a Bordeaux style blend which needs a couple of years' cellaring.
All these are available during an era of excitement for growing numbers of local
vineyard workers in the Cape, who, for the first time, are becoming owner-partners in winemaking operations such as Freedom Road and Winds of Change. But South
Africans must take a firm stance and give international customers the forward style of wines they prefer, because if they don't the trickle of Australian winemakers working in
the Cape will become a flood. They know that the climate and soil offer much. The Longridge winery, with Australian winemaker Ben Radford springs to mind and the
guidance of the legendary Robin Day, of former Jacob's Creek fame, has done much to enhance Long Mountain.
It is nearly 350 years since the Dutch naval commander, Jan Van Reebeck, crushed
the first wine in the Cape and the story still unfolds, for there is more to come.
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Last updated on July 23, 2008