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GREECE; Old World tastes, New World styles
By Geoff Adams
Mavrodaphne, Xinomavro, Samos Muscat, Roditis, Assyrtiko,
Aghiorghitiko. Have you heard of these long established wine-making grapes? They are some of the most widely used indigenous varieties cultivated in Greece today.
Indeed there are over 300 different grape varieties native to Greece, some of which find their origins in antiquity, that are waiting to make a comeback on the world scene, and Greece has been forward thinking enough not to neglect old cosmopolitan favourites such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Stunningly good, world-class wine has been increasingly produced in this region during the last 10 to15 years but not until the last 5 years or so has this jewel been unearthed in Britain. Over this
period massive investment has been put into modernising this - in recent terms - fledgling industry in the most ancient of wine producing countries.
Although small quantities of this region's fine wines have been available through tiny, specialised outlets, it is not until recently that mainstream UK retailers have caught on to exactly how good these wines really are. Even now the big supermarkets only dare to have 3 or 4 different Greek wines on their shelves and it has been left up to the likes of Oddbins to bring the wines of Greece to the attention of the British public by displaying up to 50 different lines.
Increasing numbers of us are now holidaying in Greece and discovering these wines in their native land and so demand for these products in the UK is steadily growing. Exciting new companies that
specialise in importing Greek wine, such as The Greek Wine Experience, are bringing these wines into Britain in quantity, energetically representing the producers, and are now able to provide a far greater selection
for the British consumer.
If you fancy trying some then why not start with the white Boutari Assyrtiko 2000?
This V.Q.P.R.D. wine from the island of Santorini is sourced from Assyrtiko vines with an average age of 50 years. The nose exhibits a wonderful bouquet of minerals and lemon, which precedes a firm, dry palate that is brimming with crisp fruit and tasty acidity. The perfect partner to fish and seafood.
Another Island white wine is the Boutari Kretikos 2000. Sourced mainly from the Vilana grape with a few other local varieties, this medium-weight, citrus dominated mouthful delivers lashings of fresh
tasting, penetrating acidity and a finish that lasts an eternity. Fish and seafood are again the best partners to this Cretan country wine.
For lovers of soft-tannined, fruit-packed red wines, the
Palivos Aghiorghitiko 2000 is a must. This medium bodied country wine from vineyards surrounding Nemea in the Peloponnese displays a superb bouquet of damson jam, tobacco and leather and delicious,
concentrated, leathery, ripe black-fruit flavours that are perfectly knit, and balanced, with extreme accuracy by well integrated acidity. Soft tannins open out around mid-palate to give structure to the wine,
and a good long delicate fruity finish is the swansong to this little gem.
If you require more power and muscle in your glass then the Xinomavro grape may be more to your taste. The Boutari Naoussa
Grand Reserve 1996 from Macedonia in northern Greece reveals heady scents of tobacco, sweet red fruit and fresh raisins on the nose. The extremely robust palate exhibits plenty of oak and dark blackberry flavours as
well as good structure, depth and length. This is delicious with strong red meat dishes and casseroles and even spicy Greek cuisine won't put a dent in this one.
Sweet wines don't come much better that those
produced from the essentially Greek Mavrodaphne grape. The tawny/amber coloured Boutari Mavrodaphne of Patras has a delightful bouquet of raisins and delivers plenty of the same in the mouth, with the sweetly
concentrated fruit given excellent structure and backbone by crisp, bolstering acidity.
The superb length of this wine allows the acidity to penetrate deeply into a sweet dessert if you wish, and the concentrated raisiny fruit will blend beautifully with a fine cheese. Alternatively try this one cold as an aperitif.
All these wines are available from The Greek Wine Experience on 01684-566323 email: kontarines@btinternet.com and fuller details of these and just under 450 other Greek wines are available in my new book, 'Greek Wines, A Comprehensive Guide'. Phone 01673-862102 email: wine.master@tesco.net.
GEOFF ADAMS
Geoff Adams is a wine writer and columnist, born in 1961 to British parents in Singapore. His involvement and love affair with wine spans some 16 years including a two year period as
chairman of the prestigious Lincoln Wine Society, of which he remains an active committee member. He is acknowledged by producers and public alike as one of Britain's foremost experts on the wines of Greece and is
publishing his first book on this subject in the autumn of 2001.
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Last updated on July 23, 2008