Not so much an Atlas, more a world of wine

The World Atlas of Wine Sixth Edition
By Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson
Published by Mitchell Beasley
Price: £35 (Presentation pack £45)

Review by Greville Havenhand

One bright day in 1970 I was at lunch at the London cellars of Deinhard of Koblenz.  The first pre-prandial glasses of Sekt were being finished when in came a young wine writer with a number of beautifully produced maps of wine regions. Little did I know that I was witnessing the start of a publishing legend.  The writer was Hugh Johnson and the maps were the first art work for his "World Atlas of Wine", to be published the next year. It was to become a wine classic – an essential reference book and one of those beautifully produced books which are a joy in themselves.

In thirty-six years the wine world has changed beyond recognition. Who knew or cared about Australia or Chile?  Wine from New Zealand?  Didn't they only produce lamb and butter? Over these years the Atlas has been revised and reissued. In 2001 that jewel among wine experts, Jancis Robinson MW joined with Hugh Johnson to collaborate on an updated edition- the fifth. What a combination, the two brightest stars in the wine-writing firmament combining their skills to illuminate and entertain.

Now we have the sixth. In the six years since the last edition the wine world has moved on even further and so has the atlas, although at first glance it seems to be stuck in the past, with detailed maps of every Burgundy Cru vineyard and minutely divided maps of Bordeaux.  There are some French updates, including an excellent map of the terrain of St. Emilion, although the standard maps with wineries marked according to their classification is, at the moment, out dated because of the legal battles over that classification.  Areas like Toro in Spain, the Pelopennese, Constantia in South Africa and the Limestone Coast in Australia are represented.  The spread of wine into Asia brings a small section on China, a nod towards Japan and such places as Thailand and India. I particularly liked the detailed maps of individual sections of the Napa Valley.

It is not only the maps and the lavish illustrations that impress. The sections on wine making, a year in the vineyard, terroir and the most common grapes are a good introduction to the novice.  With two such writers as Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson the prose is elegant, the insights crisp and, as one would expect, always authoritative. For those who have previous editions, put them on one side and add this to your Christmas list. For those who haven't, do likewise.

WATER OF LIFE

A History of Wine-Distilling and Spirits 500BC to AD2000

By C Anne Wilson
Published by Prospect Books
Distributed by centalbooks.com
Price: £30

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor

The author, Anne Wilson, has a most unusual record. Her first book Food and Drink in Britain was published in 1973 and now 34 years later Water of Life is her second. The volume contains 300 pages of the myths, legends and history of what should be a fascinating subject, the distillation of spirits from 500BC to AD2000.

As most readers are likely to do, I began at the beginning with Chapter One, in this case Wine Distilling and the Four Elements and quickly deduced that this a serious academic volume not intended for the faint-hearted. However the author appears to assume that every reader is acquainted with the subject of distillation and allows little room for amateurs.

The first sub-title is the Earliest Wine-Distilling Recipe and here Wilson refers to the historian Herman Diels as producing evidence of distilling from the Roman Christian author Hippolytus, circa AD 200. I quote an extract from page 19.

There is sea-foam (salt) that has been heated in an earthenware wine-jar with new wine . When this has been boiled, if you apply a burning lamp to it, seizing the fire it sets itself alight, and if poured upon the head, it does not burn at all. And if you add manna to it as it boils, it catches fire more readily. It does better still if you put to it some sulphur.

Next comes The Early Experimenters in Egypt and the claim that It is extremely likely that they [the Egyptians] distilled wine, and were interested in the high fire content of spirits of wine. Many of us have used terms like extremely likely but do they prove anything?

Third is The Four Elements: Pythagoras and Plato where Wilson explains Pythagoras brought tetraktys to our race, as his followers claimed, meaning 'to the race or tribe of Pythagorean philosophers'. They swore their most solemn oath, 'by him who brought the tetraktys to our race'.

It tells of the tetraktys which was laid out on the ground as a triangular pebble figure with the 1 at the apex and the 4 at the base. In this form it may have had a role in initiation ceremonies, since it has the interesting characteristic that the relationship between the 1 and 4 depends on the position of the viewer. The pebble at either end of the baseline of 4 can become the apex if seen from the other two sides.

At this point I have to ask, dear reader, are you with me, or more specifically with Water of Life? It has long since drowned me in convoluted and obscure phraseology.

£30 is pretty expensive for an average size hardback and its subject matter could have been an opportunity to fill a gap in the market. Let's hope the publisher can achieve more than I could by attempting to read it. In all the years that I have reviewed books, never before have I given up at the end of the first chapter.

THE HEALING POWER OF CHAMPAGNE
History, Traditions, Biology and Diet

By Dr Tran Ky and Dr F Drouard
Translated by Reginald Duquesnoy
Published by Savoir-Boire Ltd
Cost: £25 + P&P from www.savoirboire.co.uk

Many books have been written on the subject of Champagne, including several on the history and traditions of the drink but at least these medical authors offer some new content in covering Biology and Diet. Not since the publication half a century ago of Wine is the Best Medicine by the late Dr Maury, have I seen anything that quite compares to this enlightening and often witty volume.

'The Healing Power of Champagne' is a medium sized hardback edition comprising 19 chapters, 156 pages and 45 illustrations. Despite the many amusing Punch-style cartoons, this is a serious book that has been researched in great detail and which must have been well written in the original French because it has translated well. It would make a perfect gift for a serious wine buff. The list of chapters includes some curious and original material: Obesity and Cellulite, Appetite Loss, Arterial Stenosis, Migraine, Insomnia and Lazy Bowel to name but a few.

Obesity and Cellulite

To beat cellulite and save one's skin, early detection is essential. The book enumerates some of the modern methods to treat the problem including ionophoresis, mesotherapy and rejuvenating wraps but adds the intelligent comment recourse to Champagne Brut, one glass per meal, is also recommended because of its diuretic properties and ability to stimulate the lymphatic system. The wine will not make you lose weight, but represents an interesting adjuvant treatment in the initial battle against cellulite.

Appetite Loss

This chapter opens with: There is no better natural doctor for a man than his own appetite. Rousseau was right. Every man in good health has an appetite at meal times. Hunger and appetite, it seems, are two different but closely linked sensations which both participate in the growth of sensory and psychological arousal. We may eat either because we are hungry, or because we are attracted by some tempting dish placed before us. If neither situation is present in our daily life then the situation can become serious as in anorexia. Have no fear for here comes Champagne riding into the battle like a sparkling knight. It is, we are told correctly, as good an appetite stimulant as most remedies prescribed for that purpose. In man, the effect of Champagne occurs about 10 minutes after absorption. The wine imitates the action of dopamine, which slows the control from the centre of satiety and opens appetite.

Arterial Sclerosis

This brief chapter is entwined in techno-speak and is perhaps more suitable for a medical student than a wine journalist to analyse. Its nitty gritty message seems to be the familiar one that we risk harm by smoking tobacco, consuming excess sugar and certain fats. These enemies to good health damage the heart and blood vessels but Champagne, in homeopathic doses, helps these asphyxiated cells breathe better while ensuring the regeneration of their membrane.

In no way would I deter anyone from drinking the finest of Champagne for this worthy purpose. But I wonder whether such claims are based on the Champagne terroir and in particular its chalky soil, or whether a bottle fermented sparkling wine made from the same grape varieties in another country, would have the same effect at a lesser price.

Migraine

We have long known that migraine has resisted any form of therapy and that remedies are numerous but ineffective…In England it is estimated that 10 per cent of Her Majesty's subjects suffer from migraine. Bonaparte, we are told, suffered from migraine but then he enjoyed red wine and Cognac. Josephine drank Monsieur Moët's fizz so presumably she had a clear head. Darwin, Bernard Shaw, Queen Victoria and Tolstoy were all migraine victims but did they know the medicinal virtue of Champagne…comes partly from its high lithium content…The action of lithium is reinforced by the presence of magnesium ions, which we know have a sedative influence on the brain.

Insomnia

Chapter 9 continues the complaints and cure theme with the statement Unfortunately, many of us suffer from sleepless nights. Sleep, though is not just a period of rest. The learned Professors remind us that also Sleep is a great source of creativity for many poets, artists and scientists. The great German chemist Kekule solved the enigma of the molecular structure of benzine during a dream and the archeologist Hilprecht found the key to the translation of the stone of Nebuchadnezzar in his sleep and Stevenson credited the idea for Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde to his dreams. If only we knew what each had been drinking.

The magical property of Champagne to induce sleep at a sip is due not only to its magnesium, copper, ionic iron and calcium, but also to the specific properties of its higher alcohols and zinc. In effect the book tells us that the insomniac, about one hour after drinking a glass of Champagne…begins to yawn and feels an irresistible urge to sleep.

Lazy Bowel

With wry humour Chapter 15 brings us to a state of inactivity that affected Jean -Jacques Rousseau who never hesitated to prolong his sessions on the throne by several hours, whiling away the time reading and meditating. A fellow complainant was Louis XIV whose august constipation was such that his pages had to hold a candle until the accomplishment of the royal defecation, not to forget Molière who reflected on how constipation plagued our ancestors.

Sadly these eminent French gentlemen do not appear to have known that in small doses Champagne has an interesting laxative action and is often effective. However, more than two flutes reverse the action and amplify retention.

The Authors

Dr Tran Key is a Cambodian who studied medicine at Lyons Military Medical School. After a period with the French Army with the rank of Colonel, he became a Professor of Urology in France but is now retired. He has had the remarkable total of 70 books published.

Dr Francois Drouard is a Professor of Digestive Surgery and Honorary President of the French Society of Coelioscopic Surgery. He is also the son of a small Champagne producer.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

The Emperor of Wine
The Remarkable Story of the Rise and Reign of Robert Parker
By Elin McCoy
Available from Grub Street Publishing in April 2006
www.grubstreet.co.uk
£20 hardback

Robert Parker is the world's most influential wine critic . Over the last 25 years, Parker has transformed the international wine world with his bi-monthly newsletter, 'The Wine Advocate', which has more than 40,000 subscribers in over 37 countries. It exerts the single most significant influence on consumers' wine buying habits and impacts the way wine is being made, marketed, and sold in every wine country in the world from the U.S. to France to Australia. Profiled in countless magazines and newspapers, Parker stands at the centre of a heated controversy: Is he a passionate lover of wine who is largely responsible for its vastly improved quality, or is he, as others claim, killing tradition? Now, wine veteran Elin McCoy tackles such questions, chronicling the rise of this American lawyer turned supreme wine judge in THE EMPEROR OF WINE.

The first book to deconstruct the mythic palate and brilliant entrepeneurship of the self -styled consumer advocate who changed the world's outlook on wine, THE EMPEROR OF WINE is the tale of a classic American visionary – independent, creative, passionate, unstoppable – attaining immense influence and wealth on his own terms. A wine insider herself, McCoy gives readers an intimate view of the strong personalities, feuds, controversies, payoffs, and secrets of the wine world, explaining how wine reputations are made, how and why wine critics agree and disagree, and revealing details of the ways wines are judged, promoted, made, and sold today. This engrossing story shows how a world that once was the province of gentlemen's clubs and stuffed shirts turned into a sensual hobby for the middle class, creating a luxury industry bent on making money on a world-wide scale. With a backdrop equally rich in detail, from the refined but brutal rivalries in the wine making capitals of Burgundy and Bordeaux to the extraordinary blossoming of ambitious, wealthy wine producers in Northern California, THE EMPEROR OF WINE is the definitive book on Robert Parker's upward climb and the inner workings of today's wine industry.

Edited by Darryl Beeson, Wine on the Web American Editor

(NB: Interestingly the same book in the US, published last year, bears the title 'The Emperor of Wine – The Rise of Robert M. Parker Jr. and the Reign of American Taste'.)

TASTING AND GRADING WINE
By Clive S Michelsen
Published by the Wine Appreciation Guild
http://www.wineappreciation.com/

Distributed in the UK by Vine House Distribution Ltd
http://www.vinehouseuk.co.uk

Price: £30.00

This is a serious wine book - so serious that it will only appeal to the most dedicated amateurs and professionals. Clive Michelsen is the founder of Sweden's Malmo Wine Academy and the book represent 10 years of his research work – very serious work.

Of course every author knows it is crucial to get the reader off to a good start. Clive Michelsen begins with a chapter entitled The Principles of Wine. This includes sub -divisions on viticulture, weather, the vine, the seasons, the crucial subject of the timing of the harvest, insectory*, vinification, harvest, approval of bought grapes, quality assurance, winemaking and testing.

* Insectory    An insectory is a sectioned-off insect investigatory area within a vineyard. This area is managed by the vineyard manager or vineyard nursery and its sole purpose is to monitor insect movement from plant to plant. Vineyard insects are studied here and their preferences for food and dislikes noted, which is a very time -consuming and cost-worthy undertaking but extremely beneficial to ecological and organic winemaking.

Chapter 2 covers styles of wine and surprisingly divides them between Old World Style (Classical) and New World Style (Modern). Where does that leave the hundreds of Oz winemakers working in Europe making fruit forward wines?

Chapter 3 is sub-titled Wine Tasting Procedures. These are carefully and thoroughly explained apart from the apparent paradox of dull brightness when used to assess the appearance of a wine. In fact a strange example of dull brightness is shown on page 45 where the author is seen tasting in a dimly lit cellar. Is this an error?

Chapter 4 has useful content on defects including oxidised and corked wines.

Chapter 5 takes one into really serious territory of Grading Procedures with subjects like appearance and colour, depth, aroma, grape or blend typicity, age and volatility assessment, character, sweetness, acidity and balance, bitterness and body point assessment.

Chapter 6 is quite lengthy and concerns Marketing and Pricing with some rather unusual graphs.

The topics for Chapter 7 are Grape Varieties, Oak & Additives. Descriptions are given of 30 different grape varieties, divided equally between red and white. Full pages are dedicated to each one and include paragraphs on synonyms, areas found, wine styles and blends, grape physiology, phenology, berries, diseases, appearance, the nose, the palate and excellent food combinations. As a wine journalist I found this chapter most informative.

The final chapter covers Decanting and Aerating Wine. A surprise omission was the electronic wine breather Rouge 0² which is extremely effective at aerating individual glasses of red wine. However the author is wise when he writes you should only aerate wines that are youthful.

'Tasting and Grading Wine' is a comprehensive work written by a dedicated professional. What it lacks in flair it makes up for with informative content. I will certainly consult it in the future.

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor, February 2006

THE GREAT WINES OF FRANCE
By Clive Coates MW
Published by Mitchell Beazley
£30

This is a fine and elegant work and will be a prized possession in many a private library. It is a personal book in which one of the true experts on French wines selects his Great Wines of France totaling 42 chateaux, domaines and producers.

The book begins – naturally – with Bordeaux, and includes 10 chapters on its finest properties. Of course these include all the anticipated first growths. So what does the author have to say about my favourite - Cheval-Blanc? I last visited that great chateau as long ago as 1987 when it was controlled by Jacques Hébrard and was planted with over 90% Cabernet Franc. I was interested to read of any changes.

Clive Coates gives us the basic facts that the estate now covers 41 hectares, of which 35 are planted with vines. 60% is Cabernet Franc, 39 % Merlot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cheval-Blanc is the only great wine in the world to be made primarily from Cabernet Franc. Intriguingly the neighbouring property of Chateau Figeac is planted, in total contrast, with over 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and the wines taste quite unalike.

Chateau Trotanoy is a surprise but welcome choice from Bordeaux. The name of this great Pomerol, Coates tells us, derives from the medieval French trop anoi or trop ennuie meaning too much bother. Not an opinion held by anyone today.

Somehow the author succeeds in being comprehensive within a chapter consisting of just two pages. He informs us of the geographical position of the chateau. He adds praise for its owners, the Moueix family, for their great Bordeaux successes whilst others have ceased to exist. He explains the geology of the vineyard, its small size of just 7.2 productive hectares and the balance of the planting – 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. He then compares the production of Trotanoy with Petrus.

From Bordeaux to Burgundy. Why are wine writers so predictable, or are they bound by regime? Clive Coates is certainly not bound by his selection of Burgundy producers . He chooses Anne Gros, Armand Rousseau, Comtes Georges de Vogüe, Comtes Lafon, Joseph Drouhin, Leflaive, Leroy, Louis Jadot, Ramonet, Raveneau and last but clearly not least, the truly eminent Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. If you are unfamiliar with the name of Anne Gros, the author explains, In the last fifteen years she has established her domaine amongst the top half-dozen in all of Burgundy.

Anne's wines have been entirely domaine-bottled only since 1990. The wines though are brilliant. She has learned fast. Today her Richebourg is one of the truly great wines of Burgundy. It is wine of great purity, splendid intensity, and delicious fruit.

So on to Champagne & Alsace, strange bedfellows. Not that I argue with his selection of Krug, Pol Roger, Louis Roederer and Trimbach, all of them stylish masters of their vinous professions but they would have fared better in separate groups. Krug is a truly great Champagne house with magnificent vintage wine. Pol Roger has found itself in a golden era and makes arguably the finest Blanc de Chardonnay, Louis Roederer has a deserved record for consistent finesse and makes the much admired Cristal and F. E. Trimbach, founded in 1626 and the Alsace perfectionist, makes Clos Sainte Hune and Cuvée Frédéric-Emile, the two greatest dry Rieslings imaginable.

The Loire Valley surprisingly offers 8 wines as being great, including 4 reds. This is an intriguing decision, for surely the biggest problem for Loire reds is the inconsistency of its climatic conditions. No one doubts that exciting properties like Clos d'Echo owned by Couly-Dutheil and the Saumur-Champigny Clos Rougeard can make outstanding wines in occasional years, or is global warming now supporting their case? Surely the Loire is best known for its whites and there Coates makes some admirable choices. Coulée de Serrant is one of them, identified correctly as the World's Finest Dry Wine made from the fickle Chenin grape. It is a classic long aging wine that has enjoyed a fine track record for many years. Didier Dagueneau the Wild Man of Pouilly Fumé and Domaine de Clos Naudin from Philippe Foreau also feature. Clos Naudin is unusual in that it produces all the still styles from sec to doux.

From the Rhône the writer names just 4 wines; Chateau de Beaucastel the extremely popular Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Jean-Louis Chave whose family have been growers in Hermitage for over 500 years, E Guigal, the King of Côte-Rôtie and Paul Jaboulet Aîné also famed for Hermitage. Some might wonder whether any Condrieu was worthy of the honour.

Beaucastel has attracted many new followers, as a red Chateauneuf-du-Pape, over the last 20 years but is it better than Chateau Rayas? Chave produces small miracles in some vintages and great miracles in others. Guigal owns 14 hectares comprising many tiny vineyards on the Roasted Hillside. On the Côte Brune the family have la Viaillière, Côte Rosier, la Turque, la Pommière, la Chevalière, la Côte Boudin (the Sausage Slope), le Pavillon Rouge and la Landonne. On the Côte Blonde are la Chatillonne, la Grande Plantée, Grand Clos and la Mouline. Consequently they are produced in tiny volumes and reach extremely high prices. One can only concur with the nomination of Guigal as the greatest producer of Côte-Rôtie and probably of the entire Rhône. Paul Jaboulet Aîné, we are advised, owns 29.5 out of the 130 hectares of vines on the hill of Hermitage including the land on which lies the tiny, dilapidated chapel (hermitage) of St-Christophe after which the appellation is named. One wonders why such a famous and apparently prosperous house does not invest in its most celebrated heritage. Hermitage la Chapelle is their most prestigious wine, extremely good but great? That is a surprise.

Clive Coates finishes with the courageous selection of 5 wines representing Southwest & the Midi. Domaine Gauby, Côtes du Roussillon Villages will be known to few and I have not tasted it but the chapter grips one with it opening quote A good consultant oenologist is a dead one according to Gérard Gauby who adds all decisions about wine should be made as a result of tasting. Coates is clearly in love with Gauby Vieilles Vignes which is a Grenache-Carignan-Syrah blend. He continues la Grange des Pères is for me the greatest domaine in the Languedoc. The Vaillé brothers produce both white and red wines of which the former is a blend of ninety-plus per cent Roussanne with a dash of Chardonnay and Marsanne which sounds rather attractive. Montus from Madiran comes next. Its producer Alain Brumont is known as the man who in modern times has restored the reputation of the big red Tannat variety to the heights it once achieved in the 19^th century. That's followed by Domaine Tempier Bandol of which Coates comments the Mourvèdre is the last undiscovered great red wine grape. Yes, read his comment again carefully. Also You might expect the appellation of Bandol, bathed by the provençal heat, to provide uniform quality year after year. This is not the case. Bandol remains one of most undersung regions in France. Finally, and that position is a privilege, comes Domaine de Trévallon from Provence. The chapter heading says it all, Trévallon is not just the greatest wine of Provence but the finest example of a Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The wines are getting more and more noble as the vineyard ages.

Don't expect a Robert Parker instant influence, Clive Coates has not awarded any 98's but he is an eminent wine writer with a vast experience of French wine. Yes, his personal decisions have made me argue with him in at least 50% of his selections but his knowledge is far greater than mine. Even if his opinions are subjective, his content is sound and despite bones of contention and some rather predictable presentation, his book is strongly recommended because it evokes memories of all the great French wines one has had the honour to drink.

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor

Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2006

Wine Report 2006
By Tom Stevenson
Published by Dorling Kindersley
£9.99

The Wine Report 2004 and 2005 won the Gourmand International Award for the Best Wine Guide in the World for both years.

The 2006 edition is certainly packed full of information by Tom Stevenson and a crack force of over 40 contributors. This is an intelligent way to approach the world of wine, because the subject has become so vast that no single wine journalist can keep up-to-date with all the international changes and events.

The over-stuffed pocket book, with its 432 pages, starts with Global Reports Introduction which includes some most interesting material. The main problem is that by the time it goes to press it is no longer news.

Take the story about the talented Michigan sparkling winemaker Larry Mawby and his fizz known as Sex, which despite being permitted in the USA was rejected by the UK trade arbitrator, the Portman Group. The report is now months old and has lost its impact. Then there's the announcement of the death of the great Professor Emile Peynaud, the Grandfather of tasting. He died, we are told, in July 2004.

The Wine Report is simply planned with chapters arranged geographically, though we do find some unexpected associations like Belgium, Netherlands and Denmark, Eastern and South-Eastern Europe and South and Central America. In such an extensive book one would have thought there was sufficient room for every country to have its own section.

But my moans are only little ones so let me concentrate on a sprinkling of the good items, because, in total, they are far too numerous to mention.

The stalwart David Peppercorn helpfully informs us about a machine called the Tribaies (berry selector) which is being manufactured and promises a substantial improvement in the quality of grapes which are harvested automatically. Now that is positive news! David then shocks us with the statement from the CIVB, the leading Bordeaux wine authority, that it believes that 20% of Bordeaux vineyards need to be pulled up and comments that this is the extent of the crisis now facing the Bordeaux region.

Tom Stevenson, probably the leading specialist journalist on Champagne, covers that subject and Alsace. Included in each section are 7 categories with the writer's top 10 choices beneath. Here is an example of Tom's first choices in Champagne.

Greatest Wine Producers: Krug
Fastest Improving Producer: Vilmart
New Up-And-Coming Producers: Serge Mathieu
Best Value Producers: Charles Heidsieck
Greatest Quality Wines: Vintage Collection 1964, Moët et Chandon en magnum
Best Bargains: Gold Label 1996 Lanson
Most Exciting or Unusual Finds: Clos du Mesnil 1992 Krug.

Tom Stevenson has a great reputation for his Champagne knowledge but I am a little surprised that out of 70 Champagnes listed there is neither a single mention of Salon le Mesnil, nor its owner Laurent Perrier.

Portuguese wine expert Richard Mayson contributed the combined Port and Madeira section and it is interesting to read his listings. Quinta do Noval is named Greatest Wine Producer with Fonseca second and Graham's third. Croft shows its exciting renaissance since its 2001 purchase by the Fladgate Partnership, by being rated first as both the Fastest-Improving Producer and as the Best Bargain. The Most Exciting or Unusual Find was Taylor's Quinta da Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port 2000 which Tom describes as Delicious, dense, suave, opulent vintage Port made in tiny quantities from the oldest vines on Taylor's flagship estate.

I have, over a number of years, had the privilege of visiting vineyards scattered across the Atlantic Northeast of the USA and was delighted to read some of the findings of Sandra Silven the wine expert of the Detroit News. Two names to note have long since been praised on Wine on the Web; Dr Konstantin Frank from Lake Keuka, New York, who she lists as the Greatest Wine Producer and the exciting experimenters at Kinkead Ridge, Ripley, Ohio whom she places fourth in New and Up-And-Coming Producers.

After the regional reports come a series of useful articles including Grape Varieties by Dr François Lefort, a Classic Wine Vintage Guide by Serena Sutcliffe and a particularly interesting Wine Auctions & Investments by Anthony Rose who is the wine correspondent of the Independent. He advises us Christie's reported that Bordeaux accounted for more than 90% of its wine-sales turnover, whilst Farr Vinters, the UK's biggest broker reported a similar situation.

And one could go on and on, as the Wine Report does. It will attract those who know a little and those who know a lot but whether it is the world's best wine guide, you'll need to read the 2007 edition to discover.

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor

A Kingdom of Wine – A celebration of Ireland's "Winegeese"

Adventurous Wine Architecture

This hefty coffee table tome will create a great deal of interest. It will also provoke some argument as to whether a specific winery is ugly or beautiful. Either way we are indebted to the whole team behind the production and publication, for it is certainly a beautifully presented book and will stimulate a number of debates.

BODEGAS YSIOS

The first sight to greet the eyes on the book's dust jacket is the great, wavy, powder blue roof of Bodegas Ysios in Spain's Rioja Alavesa, its bird-like features resting on a bed of green vineyards and fields. A second glance and it could be mistaken for the majestic shape of Concorde emerging from a heat haze.

Michael Webb tells us that its architect, Santiago Calatrava, is a showman who combines the expressive artistry of Gaudi with the audacity of Italian engineer Pier Luigi Nervi. Which statement requires no further comment.

TEMPUS TWO

Down under, in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales, Tempus Two shocks with its ice-cold minimalist metallic structure. But then I am a conservative who loves small, independent family-owned ancient Tuscan wineries, like Castello di San Polo in Rosso and fairy-tale style, stone built French properties with the character of the 15^th century Chateau de la Guimonière in Chaume.

On page 31 the exterior photograph of Tempus Two is attractively lit to highlight the shades of blue and silver, with a hint of pale gold. Nonetheless it still looks like the entrance to a ferry terminal. Neither does the building say anything about wine, nor does it appear to merge with its natural surroundings. But let's be frank, one's preference with art as with wine, is personal.

CITTADELLA DEL VINO

However I need to contradict myself a little where modernity is concerned, as I have to confess my admiration for Alberto Cecchetto's stylish work at Trentino in Italy (page 50). Its ultra modern low level design has been finely balanced with the landscape – a landscape the architect is unlikely to have been familiar with since Cecchetto is based in Venice, where little of note has been built in the last hundred years. And there definitely aren't any craggy mountains to use as backdrops in Venice.

MARQUES DE RISCAL

Marques de Riscal always holds a special place in my mind for one of the most charming white Rioja wines made in the traditional dry style. Its red Reserva wines enjoy a similarly good reputation and based on the photos on page 58, its new winery is also not to be missed. It is startling and looks as if a tornado has just struck, ripping the stainless steel vats into ribbons. Perhaps the photographs are not enhanced by appearing to be studio lit models. It raises a question as to why most contemporary architects are adamantly futuristic and reject so much that is classic from the past. After all classic from the past could be said with pride by Marques de Riscal about its own wines.

SHADOWFAX WINERY

An Oz winner at last! Not for its exterior designs which are rather ordinary, (though this is clearly explained on page 114, because it is a heritage site, the new building had to be reticent,) but for its brilliantly designed tasting room and restaurant. So high marks to architects Wood Marsh for a superb balance of colour.

LONG MEADOW RANCH

Good taste from California on page 170. Yes, there is plenty to be found there, both in wine and winery architecture. Long Meadow Ranch offers a simple timber design by Turnbull Griffin & Haesloop which promises peace and comfort – ideal surroundings for a little wine tasting. Tucked into a wooded backdrop above a grassy knoll, everything speaks of tranquillity and invites ease. Turn over the page and guess what one finds – a large open fireplace and a roaring log fire.

ONE FOR THE FUTURE

Page 203 has an outline design by Foster & Partners of a new winery under construction for Bodegas Faustino in the Ribera del Duero region. The accompanying text tells us that three petals radiate from a core of shared service and social areas, and the reinforced concrete frame structure will be partly buried in the ground. A first-class restaurant and banqueting facilities are planned, and a 45 room hotel will be added at a later date. If it can beat Faustino's magnificent Bodegas Campillo winery it will achieve much.

'Beauty is in the eye of the beholder' but is it beauty we seek from a winery? Judge for yourself. Either way this book is spellbinding.

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor, September 2005

Chilean Wine – The Heritage
By Rodrigo Alvarado
Published by The Wine Appreciation Guild
Distributed by Vine House Distribution http://www.vinehouseuk.co.uk/

Price: £14.95

This fascinating and detailed book is a positive assertion that a 'new book' on the subject of wine can be written, thanks, on this occasion, to the author's interest in wine history. That isn't to say that the book will have universal appeal – it may be too in-depth for many. It is, rather, a serious book for serious wine lovers.

The first 69 pages cover the history of wine from its origins around 6,000 BC until the Franciscans planted their Pais vines in Chile in 1548. Alvarado writes with some authority, notably when he identifies Fray Francisco de Carabantes as having first brought vines to Chile in that year, thus disputing previous claims that the distinction went to Fray Cídron (Cedron). Rodrigo Alvarado's reputation as a Chilean historian adds weight to his argument and his credibility is further enhanced by the fact that he lives and works in the country and speaks Spanish.

The early history of wine is scant and more than one writer has had to correct published work at a later date. The author quickly informs his readers that the origin of vitis vinifera sativa (the true noble species of vine) has long since been placed in Asia Minor, specifically in the area of Mount Ararat, east of Turkey, climbing into the Caucasus Mountains. Strangely he fails to make the observation that in The Bible, in the Book of Genesis Chapter 9, Verse 20 it is written Noah, a man of the soil, was the first to plant a vineyard and Noah had just descended from the Ark on Mount Ararat. Too great a coincidence for Rodrigo Alvarado to have overlooked.

He teaches us that Mesopotamia was the world's first wine region and that Cuneiform texts from the city of Kish dating back to at least 2,500 BC inform us not only of the presence of vineyards in the region at that time, but of the wine trade that developed between the merchants of Lagash, close to the mouth of the Tigris, and the authorities of other Mesopotamian areas. He further explains that wine production was encouraged by the ruling classes who considered wine to be a symbol of fertility and reserved for a small elite group. Beer, on the other hand, was more abundant than wine and the alcoholic drink of the masses.

The section entitled Modern Times (1492-1789), pages 69 – 114, begins and ends with two significant dates, namely the first voyage of Columbus and the French Revolution. The author tells us that Columbus introduced the vine to the new territories for God and the King during his second trip to the Americas in 1493. He then adds the Spanish caravels entrusted Vitis Vinifera with the double objective of propagating the Catholic faith and reducing the high costs of importing wines for consumption by the Spanish Conquistadors. Sadly the efforts of Columbus to cultivate the New World vineyards fell victims to rot and vine diseases. Happily the importation of vines by the Conquistadors was much more successful.

Pages 115 – 147 provide a section described as The Contemporary Era in the New World  (1789-1950). It plots the development of the Chilean wine industry in the second half of the 19^th century with the emergence of such prominent labels as Concha y Toro , Cousiňo Macul, Errázuriz, Santa Rita and Undurraga. Many of these names had made their fortunes in ugly phosphate or other mining ventures, then used their wealth to transform land into beautiful wineries and vineyards.

Finally, we reach pages 149 – 172 and Chilean Viticulture (1950-2004). Alvarado begins this section with an account of how the early post war years brought many technical improvements, but then comes the sub-heading Stagnation Period 1950-1980, which tempts the reader to jump 5 pages to The Chilean Wine Boom 1980-2004. The author quickly attributes the conversion of Chilean wines to foreign influences. He singles out Miguel Torres of the famous Catalonian family as particularly praiseworthy and charts his activity in the 1970's. He acquired a small piece of land in Curicó and set about to do what Chilean winemakers had only dreamed of; he made modern wines that could compete at the international level thanks to the introduction of technology and state-of-the art facilities. This influence attracted Chilean investors such as Ricardo Claro who bought Santa Rita and the Cruzat Larrain Group who took over Santa Carolina and San Pedro.

At this juncture his message becomes a little diluted, for there is little mention of many attractive commercial Chilean wines that are regularly consumed by the public. Take Chileno as an example with its delightful Merlot Rosé, Misiones, which makes a superb Sauvignon Blanc, and the Los Robles Co-operative with its soft, peppery Fair Trade Carmenère – a dozen other spring to mind.

The book is charmingly illustrated by Chilean artist Raquel Echenique who adds warmth with her subtle choice of colour. I particularly enjoyed the painting of 3 Egyptians treading grapes in a stone lagar around 2,000 BC, while a taster, standing alongside, examines a sample of rich, red wine. It is not unlike the scenes you still find each autumn at Taylor Fladgate or Croft Port. Page 55 depicts the Last Supper in which Jesus can be seen raising a very large cup of wine. This is theologically correct because He and His Apostles were celebrating the traditional Passover Feast when the wine cup was intended to hold 1½ litres. Her cartoon-like picture of a French winemaker working in Chile, on page 126, demonstrates that she has understood her subject matter most effectively.

A highly readable and enjoyable addition to a wine library.

Review Andrew Jones, August 2005

By John Radford
Published by Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library
Price: £20

With the vast changes in the Rioja region over recent years it is only appropriate that Mitchell Beazley have added to their excellent "Classic Wine Library" a comprehensive and readable book on the region. It is even more appropriate that they got John Radford to write it. John, large, bearded, extrovert, broadcaster, writer, and lecturer and perhaps one of the foremost authorities on Spanish wines in the world. Unlike his excellent "The New Spain" this is not a lavishly illustrated coffee table book but a comprehensive study of the region, its wines and its bodegas.

He begins by tracing the history of the area going back to the Romans, through troubled times in Spain's history (the region was the front line between Muslim and Christian Spain) and its importance - like so many wine areas - on the pilgrim route to Santiago di Compostela. The climate was right for wine making, the region was rich and the local food shaped the wine.  Bordeaux then came into the story. First a priest, Manuel Quintano y Quintano, who had carried out the monastic tradition of making wine, visited Bordeaux in the late eighteenth century and brought back not only new techniques but Bordeaux barrels, and the beautifully fruity Tempranillo grape, and its compatriots Garnacha, Graziano and Mazuela were given a new lease of life. However, his jealous competitors got the authorities to forbid him charging more for his wines even though they were of superior quality and cost more to make. It was therefore not until much later that the influence really spread. The French Revolution and the Peninsula war curtailed trade and later political turmoil in Spain drove into exile two men who were to become seminal figures in the development of Rioja – the Marques de Riscal and the Marques de Murrieta. The latter was a banker and set up his base in London. He was disappointed to find that London society did not appreciate the wines of Rioja and he persuaded a fellow exile, the Duque de la Victoria, who owned a vineyard in the region, that wine was a good investment. Murrieta went to Bordeaux to study winemaking and in 1852 he made his first vintage at the Duque's bodega. Using Bordeaux casks and techniques he became the virtual founder of modern Rioja. He founded his own bodega in Ygay in 1872 and that beautiful property is still the home of one of the most successful companies in Spain. The Marques de Riscal followed suit, aping the Bordelais even to the extent of introducing Cabernet Sauvignon to the Riojan vineyards.

From 1870 to 1885 was a golden age for Rioja, trade boomed, the railways opened up the ports and the markets in other parts of Spain – and wine was even sold to France, but then the French erected tariff barriers, the Spanish lost many of their colonies and, at the turn of the century came Phylloxera. Many bodegas closed, vineyards returned to general agriculture. The surviving vineyards were replanted with the vines grafted to American rootstocks but it was not until around the start of the First World War that wine began to be made again in any quantity. The war, though, had its compensations . France could not easily export to the USA and Rioja filled the void but, as in all good things, there was a downside. Quality was so varied that customers had no guarantee of what they were buying and it was realised that there needed to be a system similar to appellation controlée. In 1926 a conseja regulador was established. Radford charts the ups and downs of the regulatory system.  There had been, of course, both inside and outside Rioja, a tendency for export bottles to be labelled "Spanish Chablis", "Spanish Claret" and so on, but entry to the EU in the 1979s put an end to that.

He gives a comprehensive account of the technical changes and analyses the effect of maverick winemakers, some who went against tradition in using so-called experimental grapes (Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah) and others who stood by the traditional grapes, reviving some that had almost completely disappeared. His section on the grape varieties, viticulture and vineyard management is as clear an exposition as one could wish. There is even a useful statistical table showing the distribution of the various grape varieties in the regions. He goes on to describe the Crianza – a word which means "breeding" or "upbringing" and is the generic term to describe Spain's regulations for ageing and labelling.  For anyone new to Spanish wines this is one of the most useful chapters.

Not content with his own assessment of the future of Rioja Radford sent a questionnaire to all the bodegas. He received answers from many. When asked what has been the biggest threat to the success of Rioja wine in the past twenty years most blamed bureaucracy and regulation. Many blamed complacency, while others pointed their fingers at mass-produced commercial wines. He found very divided opinion on the use of "international" grape varieties, although a majority were in favour of extending the number of white varieties allowed. Most thought the levels of production to be about right, but were less unanimous on the question of the prescribed levels for oak ageing.

The major part of the book, in terms of length, is a most useful and comprehensive "Directory of Rioja". Based on numerous personal visits and a less than complete series of questionnaires there is ample information for the wine lover, the wine buyer and the vinous tourist. Each entry gives basic details – address, telephone number, website, contact, winemaker's name, acreage of grapes, production, main export markets etc. He lists the wines produced and gives information on opening hours etc.  This is followed by a more discursive description of the bodega, and something of its history. His palate then comes into play, describing and rating the wines on a star system.

This is a much-needed book on a major wine region – a region that is changing and a region that is often misunderstood.

Review by Greville Havenhand

Secrets of Wine: Insider insights into the real world of Wine

By Giles Kime
Published by The Infinite Ideas Company Ltd
£12.99
Web-site: www.infideas.com

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52 brilliant ideas - one good idea can change your life

This mid-size softback catches the eye with its unusual front cover showing 3 wine glasses filled individually with a) batteries b) strawberries and c) what I assume are cinnamon sticks. A swipe at fairly standard wine vocabulary as in a) long-lasting/powerful b) hints of strawberries and c) nuances of cinnamon?

Clearly the book is aimed at dispelling the hype surrounding wine with chapter sub -titles along the lines of Never mind the b******s. If you open a bottle of wine burdened with preconceived ideas based on its label, its price and myths spun by the wine trade , it's time to learn the art of free-thinking drinking. A good basic point. Don't be prejudiced about wines. Don't make up your mind in advance.

Here's a good example from my own experience.

At the May 2005 London International Wine Trade Fair a major Spanish wine company called United Wineries offered visitors the chance to participate in a blind tasting of 6 wines. These included 5 outstanding Spanish reds and Penfolds Grange, widely regarded as the finest red from the Southern Hemisphere. Tasters were simply asked to taste each wine blind and give it a mark on a 100 scale. 46 tasters of different experiences participated and the total number of marks given was averaged. This resulted in Penfold's Grange 1999, at a cost of £120, winning with 97 points and a dead heat for second place (95 points) between Durius Magister 2002 at £30 and Finca Valpiedra Martinez Bujanda 1997 at just £17. Who can guess what marks might have been given if the labels had been seen in advance?

Idea/Chapter 2 recommends The Secret of Filleting. Giles Kime reports that it's similar to the approach taken by a friend of mine to hefty weekend newspapers. First to be chucked in the bin are the leaflets advertising garden furniture, then the finance and business sections and finally the sport. The idea is not to try and become a world expert overnight but limit oneself to a realistic selection.

The author suggests a choice of two different approaches. The classical approach is geographical and includes Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Loire, Australia and New Zealand. The Modernist approach selects 5 grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. By region or by grape – a fairly sound approach and one with which I concur.

Chapter 10, Grape Expectations, suggests a taste test of the following:

Burgundian Chardonnay/Australian Chardonnay
Burgundian Pinot Noir/New Zealand Pinot Noir
Loire Sauvignon Blanc/ Chilean Sauvignon Blanc
Sweet German Riesling/Australian dry Riesling

This is not a new idea and the selections are rather general and might have been more helpful if even more polarised. Maybe:

Chablis/Margaret River Chardonnay
Mercurey Rouge/Otago Pinot Noir
Pouilly Fumé/Rapel Valley Sauvignon Blanc
Piesporter Goldtropchen/Coonawarra Riesling

These regions, because of soil and climate differences, would give clearly defined characteristics.

I was attracted to Chapter 39: All fine and dandy because in it Giles Kime asks the rhetorical question, What makes a wine worthy of the description 'fine'? He leads us along several exploratory paths but makes his wisest and most significant comment with…Try comparing an expensive, prestigious fine wine with a favourite, more offbeat wine from the South of France, or Spain. Consider the difference in price and then decide whether or not it's really worth the extra expense.

That is what wine is really all about.

Secrets of Wine is a well-structured book, written in a vigorous and straightforward fashion. It might not be ideal for beginners as it is a little too generalised. Also many of the concepts are not as new as the author makes them out to be. However the book might well help improvers and if one persists the rewards will be considerable.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

THE WINES OF THE NAPA VALLEY

This relatively small hardback contains a great deal of information which will prove helpful both to the dedicated Napa enthusiast and to the professional. Larry Walker is himself a serious professional and he demonstrates an intimate knowledge of his subject matter time and again. In particular the author gives the reader a rare insight into the business operations behind the more romantic winery shop-fronts.


Walker begins with the history of the Napa Valley and its development as a wine region. He explains it simply and clearly, though he does make one basic mistake. Writing on page 18 about one of Napa's greatest properties, he refers to the historic Inglenook estate, which had been founded in 1879 by Gustave Niebaum. Gustave Niebaum was a legendary Finnish fur trader who made a fortune and then settled in the Napa Valley and became a prominent vineyard owner. But the actual Inglenook Estate was founded in 1872 by the Scotsman William Watson, who named his investment Inglenook because it was the Scottish term for a Cosy Corner and also referred to a certain style of fireplace. Watson built Inglenook primarily as a health spa and planted 70 acres of vines alongside. Unfortunately tourists failed to arrive and the only thing that thrived was his vineyard. He sold the entire property to Niebaum in 1879. Such details are important because no great region should lose a part of its heritage.

Probably the most useful information comes in the listings of over 200 wineries, most with helpful contact information. Fortunately Larry Walker does not allow himself to be tempted to produce any kind of Bordeaux 1855 classification but he does offer us The A List. This includes names such as Beringer Blass Estates, Cakebread Cellars, Diamond Creek, Duckhorn, Dunn Vineyards, Joseph Phelps, Shafer Vineyards, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and Trefethen Vineyards but Caymus Vineyards with its legendary Special Selection is – surprisingly - overlooked.

Walker's book will appeal most to wine journalists and more diligent wine amateurs, although it will, no doubt, produce a steady harvest in the tourist shops of the Napa wineries. It will most certainly remain on my bookshelf as a professional reference and as such will provide useful background material for some years to come.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

CALVADOS, The world's premier apple brandy
By Henrik Mattsson

Published by Flavourrider.com
Hardback £25

This attractively packaged medium-sized hardback offers 196 pages of content. Some of the content is a little tedious and/or pedantic; some will prove enthralling to those who love Calvados and its home region of Normandy. It is pleasingly illustrated with 250 colour photographs and maps. The photos demonstrate a great sympathy for the Normandy countryside and its spirituous metier.

Henrik Mattson, aided by his father Olle, must have spent a considerable time in Normandy for he has researched his subject meticulously. He walks the reader through the region as it really is, a region where dairy farming – especially cheese-making – co-exists with apple and pear orchards and Calvados production. He teaches us about the history of Calvados, how it is made and its varying appellations. He opened my own eyes by explaining that some of the golden spirit is produced from pears.

At times you can almost smell the bouquet of apples and pears rising from the page, particularly when perusing the extensive section that lists producers. This is a mouthwatering boon to Calvados lovers and will encourage many more weekend visits from the South of England. It includes 48 pages of apple brandy producers from Normandy, 1 from Brittany, 4 from the USA and 3 UK producers, including Celtic Spirit from Abersychan in the Welsh county of Monmouthshire.

At times the English is a little clumsy, presumably as the result of translation but that does not deter me from giving the book a high recommendation. It is a must for all Calvados fans and those who wish to visit Normandy.
Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

The Winelands of Britain: Past, Present & Prospective
By Professor Richard Selley

ISBN 0-9547419-0-0
Paperback, 10 + 109 A4 pages, 1 colour map & 47 b & w figures, 9 tables
RRP £10.00 More details on: www.winelandsofbritain.co.uk.

Published by Petravin.co.uk
P.O. Box 425
Dorking
Surrey RH5 4WA

Order from the publisher at £11.00 per copy, which includes p & p. Please make cheques payable to R. Selley No. 1 Account.

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**** Highly recommended

There are two features of Professor Selley's book which immediately recommend it – his sense of humour and his ability to communicate geology in layman's terms. I am not a geologist but his hypothesis regarding the future of Britain's winelands – a term more usually associated with South African wine – is both eminently readable and well documented.

That he wrote the book for 'his own amusement' is evident from the enthusiasm which permeates every page. I particularly like the diagrams with 'Assorted horrible igneous and metamorphic rocks' and the amiable child's version of a monster floating on Loch Ness. Tongue-in-cheek asides such as 'The idea that the Nene Valley vineyards produced raisins for sale in the Lincoln branch of Marcus and Spencius is whimsical.' all help to enliven what could be a tedious subject. Nuggets of informative trivia emerge from time to time. I, for one, did not know that 'In the whole animal kingdom only starlings appear to be immune to alcohol, having an enzyme so powerful that it can break down alcohol 14 times faster than humans. This explains why no one has seen an intoxicated starling.'

To the heart of the matter. In his book the author sets out to explore 'the impact of climate change and of geology on viticulture' in the UK. The diagrams map 'the ebb and flow' of vineyards across Britain over the last two thousand years and predict the probable sites of future vineyards if the present phase of global warming continues. This in a nutshell is what the book is all about.

We are apparently living in an Ice Age with intermittent warm blips such as the current one. There were also warm blips in the Roman and Medieval periods, with an intervening 'Saxon Sag' (sounds like a nasty medical condition) in the Dark Ages. It is widely acknowledged that the Romans brought viticulture to Britain and as Professor Selley points out 'There is .. at present no written or archaeological evidence for pre-Roman viticulture in Britain'. Although that didn't stop us enjoying an imported tipple or amphora of wine. Recent excavations at Wollaston in Northants have clinched the case for Roman vine-growing, and Wine on the Web has carried an article to that effect for some years (see our News page). Since the implosion of the Roman Empire such eminently respectable sources as the Venerable Bede and the Domesday Book bear witness to the rise and fall of viticulture in this land.

So what of geology? It 'controls the altitude, orientation, topography and composition of landscape'. This seems a fair enough claim and Professor Selley has every right to complain that the importance of geologists in advising on the selection of the best vineyard sites has often been either sidelined or simply ignored. And with a neat twist on Jane Austen – 'It is a truth universally acknowledged that an estate in possession of a southerly prospect, must be in want of a vineyard' – the author foresees 'reborn' vineyards on alluvial terraces as are found in the Thames Valley, and, of course, on the chalk Downs; also virginal winelands on the southern slopes of the Lake District and as far North as the Grampians and the Great Glen of Scotland. All this if global warming continues.

But do I detect a hint of Francophobia? Don't forget, Professor, we beat Napoleon at Waterloo. If the French wish to be defensive about the use of the term 'Champagne' and limit it to that eponymous region in France, that is their right. The Portuguese are equally defensive about the application of the term 'Port'. Why not use our own terms? After all this is the island of Shakespeare. What is wrong with 'Lake District' as an appellation or 'Ness-side'? The Australians are content with Adelaide Hills and the Californians with Napa Valley. We do not need Côtes d'Ecossaise or Côtes de Northants. Neither is 'terroir' 'a quasi-mystical term' to most oenologists but just a piece of technical vocabulary as 'syncline' is to geologists.

But back to the UK. I am all for encouraging the winegrowers of Britain but will they ever be major players in the international world of wine? The wines are pricey – especially in view of their quality. Or will they be relegated to the niche category along with Bali Rosé? And will Rondo, a Manchurian red wine grape by origin, be the star of UK red wine production? So many questions. Only time will give the answers.

Review by Helen Austyn, Features Editor

The legendary French wine publication Guide Hachette simply becomes the Hachette Guide in English in its new role as a Mitchell Beazley publication. Its preparation involves around 900 wine experts tasting a grand total of 30,000 wines from which 9 ,000 are selected for recommendation in the book. It covers every single appellation contrôlée in France and, of course its selection of wines is 100% French.

Put it to the test and see what you can find. I searched for 3 particularly small appellations of which I have a little knowledge.

The first was Condrieu, famous in the northern Rhône for the greatest examples of the Viognier varietal. The Hachette Guide offered 18 suggestions including the little known Laurent Betton **, consistently reliable Delas Frères * and the remarkable Alain Paret **. All of whom were honoured for their fine examples of this aromatic and delicious dry white wine which mysteriously peaks in its youth.

Next came Maury AC, a fortified red wine, with some similar characteristics to better quality Ruby Port. Maury is aged outdoors all year long in large glass bottles known as bonbonnes. First pick had to be the outstanding Mas Amiel which won a *** or exceptional rating for its Prestige 15 Ans d'Age, but the notes reveal that the property also entered a surprising and original Maury Blanc. Pop goes my little bit of authority. Hot on Mas Amiel's heels came Domaine Pouderoux - a 4-hectare (10-acre) star. The jury was obviously greatly impressed by its Grande Réserve which is exposed to the sun in bonbonnes over a period of five years and which was also awarded ***. Even the local co-operative Les Vignerons de Maury excelled with a ** rating for its Trésor Rouge 2001.

For my third appellation I chose Madiran, that classic red wine from the Armagnac region. They had to include the traditional Chateau d'Aydie to get my support and there it was with a * mark for good wine and for the first time I wondered if the Guide had the right answer from its jury. It read has colossal depth. The intense-black colour clearly reveals its long maturation in barrel. Spicy and toasty aromas re-emerge on a firmly tannic palate which needs to soften. This good-looking Madiran should be kept for three or four years. It sounds to me like a beautiful bottle to lay down for maybe 12 -15 years, or even much longer. In 1981 I visited Chateau d'Aydie with a colleague and tasted remarkable wines that were well over 50 years old and still superb.

** were awarded to the neatly named Primo Palatum Mythologia 2000 and the guide noted that it had won a coup de coeur for the 1999 wine. It described the 2000 as needing aging and possessing a black colour flecked with crimson, and aromas of ripe fruits combining with nuances of roasting. The silky and powerful palate allows the blackcurrant and the blackberry to linger as long as they please. Last but not least I read, in total contrast, of Domaine Tailleurguet 2001 * which deserves to be singled out, this Madiran, which was not matured in barrel, is even more interesting and the description makes you drool again. It left me re-convinced that I must go searching for the greatly underrated Madiran once more.

If you want an example of what the publication does best, you won't forget Forget -Chemin Special Club 1998 Champagne. It is found on page 536 out of 1,019 pages and yes, that is what it is called - Forget, as in famous former tennis player Guy Forget, but no known relative. Chemin is a little road and theirs is notably called rue Victor-Hugo, in the small Champagne town of Ludes. The 1998 bowled over the tasters and was awarded ** for excellent wine and the Hachette guide also gives you telephone and fax numbers and an e-mail address for this small farmer-producer, who owns just 12 hectares (30 acres).

The Hachette Guide is for professionals, serious amateurs and those who would love to take an adventurous holiday searching for the stars of some little known appellation. It's not perfect but it does its jobs rather well, at least sufficiently to gain somewhere between ** and ***.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

WINES OF SOUTH AMERICA
By Monty Waldin Photographs by Jason Lowe

This is quite a large, glossy, well-packaged hardback, with maps and photographs providing comprehensive coverage of South American wines from 7 countries. The amount of space given to Chile is much greater than to other countries because its wines are more widely known in the UK. Monty Waldin is one of the 'Young Turks' amongst an emerging stream of British wine writers who have developed their skills in the trade press. He also has some experience as a winemaker in different countries.

The author writes in short, succinct sentences which offer precise information.

Waldin gives the impression of being an honest and straightforward wine writer, something that is evident from his review of the high-flying Casa Lapostolle winery, one that has revelled in a steady stream of publicity during the last decade. He doesn't allow himself to be influenced by the Casa Lapostolle public relations programme, which claims that the winery's production of outstanding wines is due to the supervision of world-renowned wine consultant Michel Rolland. Instead, Waldin makes up his own mind by tasting the range and giving a frank assessment of wines that I myself have considered over-rated for some time. The author describes the winery's Tanao Blanc as a firm, slightly vegetal dry blend of Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and continues with his assessment of its Classic Chardonnay, Classic Sauvignon Blanc and much vaunted Cuvée Alexandre Chardonnay as all showing clean, tropical-fruit flavours consistent with cool fermentation, but also a slight hardness, which may be seen as a 'French style'. He then refers to Michel Rolland preferring the elegance of the 2000 Cuvée Alexandre Merlot to the concentration of the 1999 and comments this may signal a welcome change in style to wines with more obvious freshness.

His assessment of the Santa Rita winery is also straight to the point. Whereas many writers might avoid Santa Rita because of its sheer size (Waldin does comment about its annual sales of around sixteen million bottles) he continues it is also believed to be one of Chile's best-managed, both in terms of the wines it produces under head winemaker Cecilia Torres, and the prices it obtains for them in North America and the UK. He also writes in praise of Santa Rita's flagship label Casa Real, which he identifies as probably Chile's most consistent icon red, and nominates 1999 as Casa Real's best vintage to date.

The Argentine section is particularly helpful, as not a great deal has been written on the country, and his coverage is fairly broad. Especially useful is the little box on page 94 which contains a precis of the key facts about Argentina. It reads Argentina's vineyards experience desert conditions because they lie in the rain shadow of the Andes; Malbec reds are rich, soft and easy to drink, while unique whites are made from the spicy Torrontes; the wealth of wine grapes is unmatched in South America; wine regions stretch from the cool lowlands of Patagonia in the south to the high altitude Calchaquies Valley in the far north; Argentina's political isolation and a thriving domestic wine market kept he